Scarf score

I scored a great batch of 1960s-70s scarves at the thrift store. When I find a whole collection of a certain type of item, I usually scour the store in the hopes that I'll find something else the same person donated. In this case, I just got the scarves.

The bright, almost acidic, colors jumped out at me. The one in the middle with the orange blocks on a dark blue background is my favorite and I wore it right away. Four of them are long tie-shaped scarves. I'll try to find a dog-earred or white collared dress to wear them with.

The hordes at the thift stores

My local thrift store is always crowded. The other day I waited in line to make my purchase behind FIFTEEN people! And prices for certain things are only slightly cheaper than they are at H & M or Target. Of course, I am glad that there are lots of people buying used clothing and other items instead of buying new. I just read a couple articles that back up my impression that the thrift stores are getting busier.

"Hard times have brought in hordes of new "thrifters" — one in six adults now shops at the stores," according to the article, "Save and Schmooze: Today's thrift stores offer more than bargains." In areas where there are lots of retirees, thrift stores are like community centers.

As far doing a booming business, it's the same in the U.K. -- "Sweet charity: why second-hand clothes shops are thriving" was on The Guardian website today.

That being said, it's still possible to find a bargain and to find things you can't get elsewhere. I'm always on the lookout for vintage patterns and haven't found any at my local place. Until last week.

I got this for $1.99. I've no idea yet if there is a single complete pattern amid the pattern pieces, instructions and envelopes. 

And for $4.99 I found a vintage skirt of paisley-patterned cotton velvet which I will cut up to make a bag.

I just hope that none of the hordes at the thrift store want the same stuff that I want.

From jacket with a past to bag with a future

This post is about my re-fashioning a vintage jacket into a bag using a vintage pattern. But stay tuned for the surprise ending.

Sabrina of India jacket, Boomerangs, $8.00 As I wrote in a previous post, I bought a late 1960s/early 1970s long jacket of nice-quality, hand-block printed, and hand-loomed cotton, made in India and originally sold at Bergdorf Goodman in New York. It was too worn to be saved as a garment so I decided to make a bag.

Since I don’t buy leather bags, I use fabric bags. I wear them out fairly quickly and rarely find ones that function exactly as I would like.

Although I probably could have figured out how to make this bag without a pattern, I used Simplicity 9553, dated 1971, which I had bought on Etsy for the spats.

Both bags from this pattern are featured in a 1972 Simplicity magazine I recently bought (that I owned in 1972, too). The pattern has just two pieces – a long rectangle with a semi-circular end and a strap. The rectangle just folds at two points to make the back, front, and flap of the bag and the lining.

I whipped the bag up in two short evenings. The hand-loomed cotton has a loose weave so I lined it with a medium- weight cotton.

I love this bag. It came out exactly as I wanted. It is the perfect size and shape. And color. My favorite color combo is aubergine, dark red and gold. The fabric is gold and aubergine and I added a vintage-looking trim of red embroidery with tiny silver sequins. I had bought this trim at an Indian shop in East London with no specific purpose in mind.

The lining fabric is fairly new; I got it for free at a craft supplies swap. Stars are one of my most favorite motifs, and were used a lot in the early 1970s.

I made the following changes to the pattern.

1. Because I wear bags across my body, I made the strap longer and wider. I used the cotton lining fabric on one side of the strap to give it more body.
2. I had to cut the long rectangle in 3 sections since I was using a directional pattern. That way the “buffalo tortoises” or whatever the creatures are, weren’t topsy-turvy. I had to do the same with the strap.
3. I made the bag less box-like by making shorter seams at the bottom corners of the lining.
4. I added a closure. I used one of the fabric button loops from the jacket and a vintage wooden button. I used another vintage button on the inside of the bag to add support.
5. I like a little pocket inside my bags, so in order to preserve the “history” of the jacket I cut a pocket from the back neckline with the labels intact.

The Bergdorf Goodman label that had one of the previous owner’s name (obliterated in the photo above) was moved and sewn into loops to hold pens.

As mentioned before, I had done an online search for the name of the previous owner that is hand-written on the Bergdorf Goodman label. I found that it had belonged to a young woman who, like me, is vegan.

This past week I was planning to attend the monthly social gathering, Boston Vegan Drinks. When I checked the list of attendees on Facebook, I saw the name of the woman whose name is on the label! Although I had started the bag, I now had incentive to finish it quickly.

Sorry for the headless body, I was on the roof of my building and the wind had whipped my hair across my face so I looked like Cousin It. At Vegan Drinks, I started chatting with a woman I hadn’t seen before. She told me that she had just moved back to the area after being abroad for two years.

What happened next, I couldn’t have planned better. She was telling me about her time abroad and her eyes kept moving to my bag. After a bit she said, “I’m sorry, I’m distracted because my grandmother had a jacket of the same fabric as your bag.” I said, “This is your grandmother’s jacket.” She was understandably confused. I then showed her the label with her name on it inside the bag. She was stunned.

Turns out she had given the jacket to her mother to donate before she left the country two years ago. When and where her mother donated it is unknown right now. 

Now I have a new bag and a new friend. I read somewhere that it takes being observant to notice coincidences, that they happen more often than people are aware of. If it weren't for the museum curator in me -- and my interest in the history of vintage items -- I might never have made this connection.

Confessions of an Art History Nerd: Rogier Van Der Weyden

Two recent thrift stores finds helped me concoct a look vaguely inspired by one of my favorite Northern Renaissance artists, Rogier Van Der Weyden.

Rogier van der Weyden (Flemish, c. 1400-1464), Mary Magdalene, Detail from Braque Family Triptych c. 1450

Funhouse NYC stretch ultra suede dress, $6.99, Goodwill; One World long-sleeve T-shirt, $4.99, Goodwill; tights from Cambridge Clogs; purple paratrooper boots from Vegetarian Shoes, Brighton, UK; my trusty moon face pendant purchased in the 1970s; bangles from India.

Guess I should have made the pattern in my tights line up. Oh well.

One World long-sleeve T-shirt as above; short-sleeve T-shirt, Goodwill, Cambridge, $4.99; 1970s jeans free from a clothing swap. And it works well for my uniform (see here) of short-sleeve top over long-sleeve top.

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Back to black?

I used to wear a lot of black. About 10 years ago, I embraced color. After experiencing the overload of color, noise, smells and general liveliness of Indian cities, Boston seemed to be a ghost town in black and white. (A friend moved back to Boston after several years in Spain. Used to smartly dressed Spaniards, he told me that it looked like everyone in Boston was wearing pajamas.)

I picked up these two black dresses at the thrift store the other day. I’m not sure if they’re keepers.

Here I look like a prim governess. This late 1960s was made by a local dress shop. It has a hand-stitched label: Signed by Gertrude Frank, Brookline. Of black polyester crepe with princess seams, the style is flattering. But even with the white ruffles at the collar and cuffs, I’m thinking it's too severe. Granted I only accessorized it with an Arts and Crafts, Ruskin-style ceramic and silver brooch (marked ‘Kensington Art Ware') and Victorian gold and black enamel bracelet.

And what is with tight sleeves in vintage clothes. My arms are probably the thinnest part on me, but the sleeves from the elbow down are so tight I can barely move. I noticed with my vintage Wallis jacket that the buttoned cuffs are quite snug, even though I have freakishly tiny wrists with a circumference of 5 inches. Luckily this Victorian bracelet fits me perfectly.

The other dress is a maxi dress with a black knit bodice and a brown and white polyester skirt and belt. The high collar and cuffs have black and white snowflake-pattern trim. Even though the dress fits beautifully, I don’t why the maker (it’s homemade) combined the brown and white floral and geometric patchwork print of the skirt with a Nordic black and white trim. Kind of ugly, no?

I'm not sure even the right accessories will save either of these dresses.

Channeling Susan Dey

I bought this vintage (I’m guessing 1973-4-ish) Leslie Fay knit dress with cream-colored collar and cuffs because I liked the print. It has a floral pattern in heathery teal, raspberry, purple, green and peach on a black background. I also have a thing for full sleeves and collars and cuffs in contrasting colors.

However, the “secretary” style of the dress, with its yoked bodice and self-belt, really didn’t suit me.

1970s Leslie Fay dress shortened into a shirt, $6.99, Goodwill; 1990s Max Mara vest, purchased in the early 90s, Filene’s Basement; 1970s flared jeans, free from a clothing swap; 1980s Fiorucci studded belt, $1.99, Goodwill. So, I shortened it into a shirt and ditched the ribbon and belt. Now it sort of reminds me of something Susan Dey would wear in The Partridge Family.

Adding this to:

Caped crusader

My latest find at my local charity shop is this lightweight brown wool jacket with brightly colored embroidery and mirrorwork, similar to that done in Gujarat. It is fairly new by a label I’ve never heard of. I found some clothing on eBay by this company, but little else on the internet.

Wool jacket with embroidery and mirrorwork, Anni by natural, thrifted, $6.99; olive corduroy skirt, Free People, at least 10 years old; orange/red print polyester long-sleeved top, Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti, Filene’s Basement, at least 12 years old; brown studded tank top, Rampage, Filene’s Basement; really old sweater tights; Steve Madden non-leather bootsI never wore this studded tank top as a tank top, but it makes a good vest (and looks vaguely medieval as one).

Orange printed dupatta purchased in India; Rajasthani wedding bangles purchased in Jodhpur; yard sale silver ringsLoden cape purchased in Austria in 1982; tie-dye wool scarf from LadakhThe wool jacket works well under my cape. It’s warm but not too bulky. I love capes (I have another one somewhere, I think). I feel like I'm wrapped in a blanket when I wear one. But I have to use a smallish shoulder bag under it or I look like I’m smuggling something. Also, I can’t wear a bag across the body as I usually do, otherwise it’s too difficult to get into.

Inspiration

I wasn't sure what I was going to do with this 1970s red dress that I got at the London Vintage Kilo Sale.

Jerry Hall for Vogue Patterns, Spring/Summer1975. I recognize this as at the Peacock Gate in Jaipur.I'll make a shorter (and polyester) version of this. But, I'll probably skip the turban.  More images from this fashion spread here.

Wrap-up of time in London, Part 2

In my last week in London, I made it to the only charity shop in which I’ve actually found interesting clothes at reasonably inexpensive prices (for London). I’m not saying which one it is.

Found this Desigual long-sleeve top. I was attracted to the muted color and, at first glance, the pattern reminded me of tracery of medieval stained glass. On closer inspection, it is actually graffiti, stars, cars and the words, “slow down.” Shows you where my head's at. I plan to medievalize it anyway by pairing it with my puffy sleeved, scoop-necked heathery brown t-shirt (purchased at TRAID in Camden Town last year).

I also found an actual vintage shirt. This lovely homemade 1970s blouse has a pattern that has a sort flowy Art Nouveau pattern with a touch of Egyptian-style Deco in the flower frond motifs.

I had to fit in lunch at Food for Thought, a veggie restaurant in Covent Garden that’s been around since 1974. I ate here all the time during my frequent visits to London in the 1980s and 90s.

Also had to say hello to some of my favorite artworks at the Victoria & Albert Museum, including this late 16th-early 17th-century sculpture of Nandi. He’s got such a sweet face and I love his jewelry.

My last evening in London, my Man told me to dress up as were going somewhere nice for dinner. I didn’t really have dressy clothes with me (and I don’t really own them anymore), so I cobbled together this outfit – a 1980s purple burnout velour dress (charity shop in Cambridge), red tights (on sale at Sainsbury’s), early 1990s Anna Sui red shimmery jacket (Filene’s Basement), my recently purchased blue hat, and the necklace I got for my birthday. (Sorry for bad photo).

I wanted to check out a new vegan café under the train tracks in London Fields so I took my laptop and set up shop that afternoon at Happy Kitchen. Before I gave my order to the young woman behind the counter, she said, “I love what you’re wearing!” Definitely made me feel good about my wardrobe choice for that evening. And the tea and ginger-infused flapjack also made me feel good.

Dinner was at Benares, an upscale Indian restaurant in Mayfair, that had yummy cocktails and mocktails. The clientele wasn’t that dressed up, so I was just fine. Food was very good, but for the price, my Man and I could have eaten dinner for a week at our favorite neighborhood dosa joint.

Bye-Bye London. See you soon.

Mary Tyler Moore meets Woodland Elf

My latest fashion obsession is pairing a top with short puffy sleeves and a scoop neckline over a top or tunic with full sleeves, preferably with both in heathery earth tones.  I wear them with vertical-stripe or velvety leggings and short boots. I’m sort of going for a medieval /elf look. I top them with a 1970s polyester double-knit  jacket in hunter green for a dash of Mary Tyler Moore.  

Accessories include a weighty moon-face pendant purchased in the 1970s, a beaded bracelet given to me today by my man, and blue and green woven belt I got at a clothing sway a few years back. Last week, a young man I had just met was admiring the moon-face pendant  and asked me where it was from. I told him that I didn’t remember as I had purchased it in the late 1970s. To which he replied, “So, it’s an antique then?” Gee, thanks.

Light olive green elastic waist tunic, purchased at TRAID, Camden, London, £4;heathery brown scoop neck, lined t-shirt, purchased at TRAID, Camden, London, £4; vertical-striped leggings purchased at Marks & Spencer in the early 1990s; 1970s hunter green polyester jacket, purchased at Goodwill charity shop, Cambridge, MA, $7.99 Steven Madden vegan lace-up boots; moon-face pendant purchased in the late 1970s; woven and canvas belt, free from clothing swap; seed bead bangle, gift from my man.

Linking this post to Visible Monday, as I'm fairly sure no one else is trying for a medieval/elf look.

Christmas

This was my first Christmas in London. We had a quiet day at home with lots of home-cooked food prepared  from River Cottage Veg Everyday cookbook.

Parsnip ginger soup

Ratatouille and bulghur

Cute little mince pies

Vegan goodies: hipohyfryd chocolates, Holy Cow golden crunch toffee, Fabulous Fudge factory dairy-free fudge, and Daisy & Co. vanilla marshmallows.

I've been wanting this blog to include vintage and vintage-inspired fashion but have been afraid to start, so I guess I'll just jump in now with what I wore today.

I purchased the Ted Baker aubergine (my favorite color) knit vest with pleated cap sleeves this week at TRAID (Textile Recycling for Aid and International Development) in Camden, London. It has a early 70s, Ziggy Stardust type of shape to it. I remember wearing cap sleeved knit vests in 1972. Does anyone know of any images of cap sleeved vests from 1970s ads or photos?

I've had this H & M velvet skirt for ages; it has been incredibly versatile. I've worn with a turtleneck sweater and boots for day and a satin bustier for evening.

newish Ted Baker knit vest, £8.00; Equipment embroidered blouse, purchased in early 1990s, H & M velvet skirt purchased in mid-1990s; 1960s black and white poodle print scarf that belonged to my mother. 1940s sterling brooch.